Quick Tips

When You Get Home

  • Water plants thoroughly, until water comes out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.
  • Place in shade while you prepare your planting area.
  • If you can’t plant for a few days, leave your plants in the shade out of the wind and keep the soil damp at all times.
  • Do not allow the containers to dry out.
  • For trees, shrubs, or evergreens that are simply bareroot (exposed roots without a pot):
  • Plant as quickly as possible, or
  • Place in a temporary trench in shade, covering the exposed roots or rootballs completely with soil.
  • Keep well watered.

Think Ahead - Plan and design your garden in detail including the type and number of plants you need. Keep those that have the same water and light requirements together.

Essentials for Successful Planting
  • Shovel for larger plant material
  • Trowel for small plants
  • Sharp knife or garden pruners
  • Planting Mix
  • Peat Moss
  • Manure
  • Plant-Prod Ultimate Root Booster 5-15-5
  • Bone Meal for roses
  • 2 Stakes
  • 2 Tree ties
  • Watering can, garden hose
  • Cedar Mulch
Planting in the Summer

  • Water to a depth of at least 10 cm (4”)
  • Never allow new plants to dry out.
  • Be aware of natural precipitation and adjust your watering schedule accordingly.

Planting in the Fall

  • Autumn can be dry and warm so continue to pay attention to soil moistness.
  • As long as the soil is dark in colour and cool to the touch you don’t need to water that day.

Transplanting Existing Plants in your Garden

Early spring is the best time to move established plants before they leaf out.

Container Gardening

The Thriller, Filler & Spiller Technique

  1. Thriller Plants. Plants with height that add drama and vertical elements to the combinations.
  2. Filler Plants. Once you’ve choosen your Thriller, next is your Filler varieties. Fillers tend to be more rounded and mounded plants, making the planter look full.
  3. Spiller Plants. Spillers are trailing plants that hang over the edge of the planter.

  1. Dig a hole 20 cm (8”) deeper than the container and twice as wide.
  2. Place a mixture of 1/3 Planting Mix, 1/3 cattle manure, and 1/3 peat moss with bone meal in the bottom.
  3. Follow the direction for planting the rose in its fibre pot or removing it from its plastic container as previously described.
  4. In all cases, the bud union (the swelling just above the roots) has to be 5 cm (2”) below the final soil level to help insulate the graft against severe winter conditions.
  5. Backfill the sides with more of the 3-in-1/cattle manure/peat moss mixture, packing as you go to avoid air pockets.
  6. Water the area well.
  7. If there is no bud union, i.e. shrub roses which are now grown on their own roots, make sure that the rootball is above grade to allow for some initial settling of the soil.

Perennials, Annuals & Ground Covers

  1. Dig 3 cm (1-1.5”) of composted manure into top 12 cm (5”) of soil.
  2. With a trowel or small shovel dig planting holes slightly larger than the container.
  3. For ground covers purchased in a flat, gently ease individual plants apart before planting.
  4. Plants in plastic containers need to be gently removed and roots eased apart if they appear tightly woven.
  5. When positioned in the ground, firm soil around the roots. Don’t let plants sink below the level of the ground or they’ll drown.
  6. Dilute Plant-Prod Ultimate Root Booster with water and saturate area to reduce transplant shock and stimulate root growth.

Clay Soil

Avoid planting in any low areas (except plants that tolerate extremely wet conditions).

  1. Start at the bottom of the hole with a 10-15 cm (4-6”) layer of gravel and add 20 cm (8”) of a mixture of 1/3 existing soil and 2/3 Planting Mix. Gently pack it down.
  2. The plant should sit 10-15 cm (4-6”) above ground level to allow for additional drainage.
  3. For larger plants, the plant should sit 15-20 cm (6-8”) above the ground level. Place 20-25 cm (8-10”) of gravel in the bottom of the hole, followed by 20 cm (8”) of 2/3 Planting Mix blended with 1/3 existing soil.
  4. Follow the rest of the planting instructions as previously outlined and cover the raised rootball with mulch.

Plant April to November

Hardy nursery stock is grown directly in the container you purchase it in, or has been dug and potted at the proper time of year. This minimizes transplant shock to the roots, allowing for successful planting from April right through to November.

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It’s Time to Plant

STEP 1 - Getting Started.

  • Measure the height of the rootball before planting, especially in the case of large plants that are very heavy. You want your plant to be 2.5-5 cm (1-2”) above grade to allow for some initial settling of the soil.
  • Measure the height of the rootball before planting, especially in the case of large plants that are very heavy. You want your plant to be 2.5-5 cm (1-2”) above grade to allow for some initial settling of the soil.
  • Dig a hole twice as wide and 20 cm (8”) deeper than the container.
  • If the soil is compacted, gently loosen it at the bottom and on the sides of the hole with your shovel.
  • If planting in clay, see below for specific directions.
  • Fill the bottom 20 cm (8”) with Planting Mix.
  • Pack it down so the rootball doesn’t sink below ground level when watered.

STEP 2 - Types of containers.

What type of container does your plant have? Follow these guidelines on how to prepare your new plant based on different container types:

    • Plastic Containers up to 5 gallon:

      • Grasp the base of the plant securely, turn the pot upside down, and gently slide out the moistened rootball.
      • If the roots appear thickly entangled or tightly wound around the base of the soil ball, make 3-5 vertical cuts in the rootball with a sharp knife or pruning shears.
      • Place the plant in the planting hole.

    • Plastic Containers greater than 5 gallon:

      • Lay the plant on its side, and slide off the pot.
      • If the roots appear thickly entangled or tightly wound around the base of the soil ball, make lengthwise cuts in the rootball with a sharp knife or pruning shears at 4” spacing.
      • Place in the planting hole.

    • Fibre Pots

      • Cut the rim of the pot off at the soil level in the pot.
      • Cut the bottom off the pot and remove.
      • Place the plant in the desired position in the hole, then slice the pot from top to bottom four times, evenly spaced around the pot.
      • Don’t try to remove the sides as the pot will decompose naturally.

    • Burlap Soil Bags (Balled & Burlaped)

      • Lower the complete burlap ball into the pre-dug hole.
      • If the ropes are plastic/nylon (twine), cut all the cords that are tied to the trunk and remove.
      • Don’t try to remove any of the burlap. It’s biodegradable and in a very short time the tender roots

    • Wire Baskets

      • Check the depth of the pre-dug hole. It should be 20 cm (8”) deeper than the depth of the basket. If you’ve misjudged the depth of the hole, it will be very difficult to lift out the plant to make the necessary adjustments.
      • Lower the wire basket into the planting hole.
      • If the ropes are plastic/nylon (twine), cut all the cords that are tied to the trunk and remove.

STEP 3 - Finishing steps.

  • Adjust the position of the plant in the hole so its best side is facing in the desired direction.
  • Start filling the sides with an equal mixture of existing soil and Planting Mix, packing firmly as you go to avoid air pockets.
  • Once you have filled the hole halfway, water to remove air pockets.
  • Continue to fill the hole.
  • For larger plants, make a circular ridge of soil that forms a trench so that water won’t run off.
  • To strengthen and stimulate root growth, dilute Plant-Prod Ultimate Root Booster with water as per directions.
  • Water area thoroughly with this mixture.
  • When staking trees or evergreens so they will grow straight and not lean due to the wind:

    • Secure the trunk to the stakes using tree ties.
    • Check these ties regularly to ensure they don’t tighten around the bark.
    • Remove stakes and ties after 1 or 2 years when the plant feels firmly rooted and doesn’t move when lightly shaken.
  • Left longer, these ties can severely damage bark and impede the flow of nutrients and water to the upper branches.
  • Add a layer of Cedar Mulch around the base of plants to keep roots cool and reduce evapotranspiration while keeping weeds at bay.

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Successfully Maintaining Your New Plants

  1. Water new plants every day for 1 week, every other day for the next 2 weeks, and then as required. For clay soil, water every other day for a week, then every 3 days for 2 weeks. Adjust all watering according to natural rainfall or drought conditions. Try not to water the plant’s foliage as it can increase the risk of disease. Rather, water at the base of the plant at ground level, preferable in the morning. If going away on vacation, have someone water for you.
  2. Apply Plant-Prod Ultimate Root Booster 5-15-5 diluted with water at the time of planting as already noted. Repeat this treatment 2 or 3 times at 2 week intervals with regular watering in between, to encourage strong root development and minimize transplant shock.
  3. For specimen trees or evergreens in the lawn, cut a circle 60-90 cm (24-36”) or more in diameter to prevent the lawnmower and/or string trimmer from damaging the bark. Cover the soil with mulch or plant a ground cover.
  4. In late fall, water heavily just before ground freeze-up if there hasn’t been much natural rain in your area in November. Place a plastic spiral tree guard on the trunks of fruit trees and Crab Apples to prevent bark damage from mice, rabbits, or deer. Evergreens can be damaged from the weight of snow and ice bending branches down. To keep branches upright, wrap with clear plastic mesh or firmly spiral green twine up the full length of the evergreen. Broadleaf evergreens like Rhododendrons are prone to wind burn and should be surrounded with burlap stapled to sturdy stakes for the winter.

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*Customer must have original recipt. Customer must bring in plant for inspection. An exchange of plants at the same value is allowed. This guarantee does not cover plants that have been abused or neglected. This guarantee does not cover plants that have been planted outside the labled hardiness zone.